Cooking on a shoestring
%26quot;Women who cooked during the Depression and wartime knew about economising,%26quot; said he who follows these things. %26quot;Their books will have what you want.%26quot;
Not quite. If it was eggless cakes and biscuits made with mutton fat, the old ways would have thrilled me. If I knew anyone other than myself who enjoyed tripe and liver and kidneys, we%26#39;d have had a (cheap) feast.
But for fast foods, simple ideas and dishes heady with herbs and spices rather than heavy with meat and more meat, the old books didn%26#39;t measure up.
They did offer sound advice for using up tea leaves, getting full value from a leg of hogget (roast, cold meat, shepherds pie, rissoles, mutton broth) and how to preserve a glut of eggs, but of fresh herbs there was seldom a word. Spice? Add cayenne or black sauce. No zest, let alone zing.
We live differently today. Sixty years ago, meat was so cheap it was served twice a day, seven days a week.
Butter and milk were heavily subsidised, which guaranteed their cheapness, and because there was an inefficient transport system, most fruit and vegetables were locally grown and locally sold %26ndash; cheaply. Cooking on a shoestring was easy.
I knew some of those old cooks though. My grandmother, aunts, my mother %26ndash; all had been through desperate times as well as the easy days %26ndash; and to a woman they understood appetising as well as satisfying.
They used fresh herbs, spices, lemon juice, and always followed the rule: %26quot;drain off the fat%26quot;. Agreed they cooked too much meat, but they used up the leftovers.
And whether their chief ingredient was minced beef or rice, they believed in spending more than a smidgen on flavourings. It made the difference then and still does.
Lemon dressing
Use a blender if you have one; if not, use a whisk. The original recipe used fresh cream (known as runny cream). Oil gives a better consistency and taste.
75ml lemon juice2 tsp mustard powder1 tsp salt1 tsp sugarAbout 125ml salad oil
Put everything in blender and whizz for a few seconds until mixed. Then, keep the motor running and slowly but steadily pour in the oil. The dressing thickens quickly to a creamy consistency. Cover and keep in the refrigerator. If it separates, whisk it before using. Use on salads or to spark up cooked vegetables.
Lemon zest salt
Keep this mixture in an airtight jar in the refrigerator and use to season chicken or lamb before cooking. If you omit the garlic and dry the lemon zest, rosemary and bayleaf before adding to the salt it will keep without refrigerating, but the salt will not be as aromatic. Do not use as a replacement for everyday iodised salt.
1 cup coarse plain salt (non-iodised)2 lemons (wash and dry well if they are waxed), zested2 finger-length sprigs of fresh rosemary, stripped1 tsp black peppercorns1 fresh bayleaf1 garlic clove, unpeeled
Put salt, zest, rosemary leaves and pepper in a food processor and whizz briefly to crush the salt. Put mixture in an airtight jar, push the bayleaf and garlic clove under the salt, cover tightly and store in the refrigerator.
Simple soup
Peel and dice 1kg of mixed vegetables %26ndash; potatoes, carrots, pumpkin, onion. Wash and trim one leek. Heat 1 Tbsp oil or butter or chosen cooking fat (lard is good) in a large saucepan. Add the diced vegetables, cover with crumpled greaseproof paper and cook over very low heat, until they sweat. This will release enough liquid to stop them sticking, but stir occasionally anyway and cook for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, slice the leek into fine rings, put in a small pan with water to cover and a drop of cooking oil.
Remove paper from diced vegetables, add 1.5 litres of water and 2-3 tsp Marmite. Add leeks and cooking water. Add salt and pepper to taste. Bring liquid to the boil and simmer for 20-25 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. The soup is now ready to eat %26ndash; blend it if you like smooth soups or serve chunky.
Options: Add half a cup of pre-cooked barley or beans, or chickpeas 10 minutes into the simmering time. Add a handful of chopped parsley or chives a few minutes before serving. Add cheese dumplings during last 15 minutes of cooking time.
Cheese dumplings
Mix %26frac12; cup breadcrumbs with %26frac12; cup grated cheese (use up cheese odds and ends), pepper and salt to taste, 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley. Beat 1 egg and add to mixture. Make marble-sized balls and drop into simmering soup. Cook for 10-15 minutes.
Greek meatballs
%26frac12; cup lemon juice1 cup breadcrumbs1 Tbsp cooking oil1 onion, diced2 cloves garlic, peeled and diced1 Tbsp fennel seeds2 tsp dried oregano1kg mince %26ndash; lamb, pork or beef, depending on price, or use a combination of all three1 Tbsp lemon zest salt %26ndash; or salt and pepper to tasteOptional: 1 Tbsp stoned, chopped black olives
Yoghurt sauce:
1 cup plain yoghurt1 tsp cornflour mixed with 1%26frac12; tsp water2 tsp finely chopped mint leaves
Pour the lemon juice over the breadcrumbs and leave to soak. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pan, add the diced onion and cook gently until soft. Add the diced garlic, fennel seeds and dried oregano. Stir and cook for a minute or two then add to the breadcrumbs. Now combine the meat with the breadcrumb mixture (use your hands), adding lemon zest salt or salt and pepper %26ndash; and olives, if using.
Mix well and refrigerate overnight or for a day to allow all the flavours to combine well. (To taste for seasoning, microwave a small piece of the meat mixture and adjust with more seasoning if required.)
To cook, preheat oven to 180deg. With floured hands make patties, meatballs or one large loaf. Place in a shallow baking tin or roasting dish, brush with cooking oil and bake for 15 minutes. Flip patties and meatballs and turn the loaf, brushing with more oil if necessary. Continue to bake until cooked %26ndash; about another 10 minutes for meatballs and patties; the meatloaf around an hour in total.
To make the sauce, whisk the yoghurt and cornflour paste together in a small saucepan over low heat, add the mint leaves and simmer for about 10 minutes. Stir the sauce through the meatballs or patties but serve separately with the loaf.
Don%26#39;t waste the warm oven. Make a batch of cheese straws for tomorrow%26#39;s lunch.
Cheese straws
Work equal amounts (100g) of grated cheese, plain flour, butter or margarine and breadcrumbs into a lump,add a little mustard powder and or cayenne pepper to taste, roll or knead to a flattish square, cut into fingers, bake until light golden brown.
