Four Seasons Golf Club prepares for Iftar feast

Sunday, July 27th, 2008

Served in The Tee Lounge and Blades Restaurant, Four Seasons’s Iftar buffet comprises an expansive selection of traditional Arabic dishes and beverages, alongside a myriad of international items.

A variety of succulent dates, refreshing regional juices like amar dain, erek-sous and karkadaih along with Ramadan soups from the cauldron will welcome guests on arrival. Dishes will be offered at various food stations offering guests a varied and eclectic choice, starting with cold or hot mezze including babaganoush, zaatar labneh, spinach sambousk and lamb kebbeh.

A salad corner features marinated asparagus and grilled halloumi or sumac marinated hammour, while the global hot buffet includes foul medamas from a copper pot with tasty accoutrements, roasted lamb ouzi, shawarma and a live Arabic grill. Diners will also delight in the woks of Asia corner and steaming dishes like lamb stew with okra, chicken casserole and vermicelli rice.

The all-inclusive Iftar rounds out with dry fruits and nuts, Ramadan sweets and desserts such as rich and creamy katayef asafiri, popular um ali as well as a Western-influenced selection of chocolate brownies and raspberry macaroons.

For those who want to enjoy a later meal, an a la carte Sahour menu will be available from 8pm until 2am, served in The Tee Lounge or on the terrace of Blades Restaurant.

The Sahour menu also takes its cue from the broad range of flavours from the Middle East and beyond. Guests can leisurely dine on Arabic favourites from waraq inab and manakish to kebab kashash and shish taouq, and end the evening with a selection of delicious local sweets.

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Indiana Jones and the kingdom of the Crystal Skull

Friday, May 30th, 2008

AGEING gracefully is a difficult art. So, hats off to Harrison Ford and Spielberg for showing that when 20 years pass by unless you live in a soap opera two decades do pass by.

The archaeologist-adventurer made famous by George Lucas, Spielberg and Ford returns as an older, wiser and a little slower Indiana Jones, who remains as fallible and as likable as in his first outing in 1981.

Spielberg insisted that the special effects would be kept to a minimum in keeping with both the spirit of the three previous Indiana Jones films and the period in which The Kingdom of the Skull is set, and this does give the film an old-worldly, hands-on feel missing in similar adventures shot now like, say, National Treasure. This includes a sword-fight between two people balanced on two parallel racing jeeps.

Still, sometimes it’s better to adopt a little change. The Kingdom of the Skull moves at a desultory pace and its storyline has few surprises. And then, suddenly in the end, it takes off in a direction that bears the special touch of Lucas and Spielberg.

What’s also surprising is how many parallels it has with National Treasure 2, released just earlier this year from mythical cities to estranged families. Sure, there is a new character being introduced, in the shape of the young flavour of the season Shia LaBeouf. But even with the Marlon Brando get-up, he looks like he has been plonked in the film from sometime else.

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Supping with angels

Wednesday, April 16th, 2008

Not to be theologically outdone, Claudia pointed out that the Blessed Virgin Mary was gazing down on her side of the table. Both were painted onto the stylish ersatz Renaissance window blind which blocked a sweeping vista of that suburban mecca, Riccarton Mall, and an automatic-teller machine opposite.
This tribute to Italian Early Renaissance painter Sandro Botticelli merely added to the evening%26#39;s slightly surreal qualities .
Within minutes of being seated in Rotherham%26#39;s compact dining area, we became aware that all around us were couples celebrating wedding anniversaries. There was a 32nd anniversary to our left, a 10th behind us, a ninth across the room and a fourth a table away. It was an orgy of nuptial happiness. The air was filled with much marital billing and cooing.
Good food should be a theatrical experience, and Rotherhams pulls no punches. But this is no stuffy, hushed gastronomic temple. The restaurant was full, but the service was an impeccable, well-oiled machine.
More importantly, it was hugely knowledgeable. Indeed, there was nothing that our waiter, Benjamin, did not seem to know as he guided us, firmly but kindly and with considerable good humour, through an extensive menu and a wine list the size of a small novel.
It contained, I learnt later, more than 450 listings. I was impressed, but a trifle boggled. Such a volume of New Zealand and imported wines might induce panic, but at Rotherhams, you are in good hands.
A selection of home-baked breads ($6) provided the ideal opener, nicely matched, on Benjamin%26#39;s suggestion, with a glass of butter-smooth Kaituna Valley Pinot Gris ($11) for me and a sparkling San Pellagrino mineral water for Claudia ($7).
Plunging into the thickets of food speak which permeate Rotherham%26#39;s menu, I ordered baked camembert bruchetta served with pernod and chive sauce, and grape-and-walnut compote with watercress and parsnip shavings ($22).
Indulgent? The ultimate comfort food? It was all these things and more %26ndash; succulent, with an intriguing blend of sharp and sweet flavours and textures. Cheese on toast will never be the same again.
Claudia supped a full-bodied tomato soup served with elongated bread sticks ($16.50), slightly bizarre accompaniments which showed Rotherham%26#39;s tendency to show off with its food presentations. After the minimalist school of cooking, this comes as something of a shock.
There are moments and places where nothing quite succeeds like excess. Perhaps this was one of them.
For the main course, I chose pan- seared milk-fed veal with courgettes, feta-cheese frittata, smoked eggplant and bell-pepper salsa and arugala pesto ($35), while Claudia selected the bacon-wrapped beef fillet, topped with Mount Peel blue cheese, gold couscous, green french beans, kumera shavings and a pink and green peppercorn glaze ($35).
The fillet arrived balanced on a pillar of marrowbone filled with couscous. While the purist might have sniffed %26quot;gimmicky%26quot;, it added flair. Once safely negotiated from its perch, the fillet was found to be perfectly medium rare, while the couscous slid steaming and fragrant from its hiding place.
In comparison, my veal dish was a model of restraint, with small cuts of meat laid across the frittata with the pesto and salsa beneath. Everything was in sync, while the veal, a difficult meat to cook well, was, hallelujah, succulent and perfectly matched with the accompanying dishes.
From what I observed during the evening, Rotherham%26#39;s desserts are constructions %26ndash; delicate filigrees, domes and spires of spun toffee and gossamer sugar floss produced with a flourish, which caused much oohing and ahhing from the other tables.
The apricot tarte tatin, Benjamin regretted, was not available, but pear tatin with hokey-pokey and vanilla- bean icecream was ($16). A feast for the eye and the palate lay beneath the toffee furbelows. It seemed sinful to demolish such a thing of beauty, but I sinned with gusto. It was sumptuous and so delicious. %26ndash;Christopher Moore
Rotherhams of Riccarton
42 Rotherham Street, Riccarton.
Phone: (03) 341-5142.
Open: Tuesday to Saturday for dinner. Reservations recommended.
Upside: Classic cuisine impeccably served in cosy but sumptuous surroundings.
Downside: over-embellished what is very good food. Why gild the lily?

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Sprouting a bright idea

Wednesday, April 16th, 2008

Riding the boom was Jeremy Howden, the son of Wairarapa farmers, who, in 1990, cashed in his holiday pay as an advertising representative for the local paper and bought the sprouts business of a Chinese greengrocery.
New Zealanders%26#39; fascination with ethnic food, encountered on their mandatory OE, had already seen the rise in main centres of restaurants with European, Asian and Middle Eastern themes. With the creation of %26quot;fusion cooking%26quot; by Kiwi chef Peter Gordon - a selection of all these food styles - in the 90s this began to filter out into the wider population.
Meanwhile, country people were making their own changes. As interest grew in organic farming, small food-producing businesses sprang up on farmlets. At the same time, a trend toward low-fat diets and healthier living was reflected in cafe menus in newly discovered lifestyle country, like Wairarapa.
Sprouts, the early curly stages of pulses - beans, peas and lentils - were essential ingredients of this new eating experience. Crispy, crunchy with a faintly earthy flavour and high in protein, they had an exotic appeal.
Mr Howden was in the right place at the right time with the right product.
He had grown up on his parents%26#39; sheep and beef farm at Te Wharau near Masterton in the 60s and 70s. It was a returned servicemen%26#39;s ballot farm, studded with the area%26#39;s ubiquitous rocky Taipo land formations, and had been rejected by the first ballot winner as too difficult to farm. His father Peter, a former prisoner of war, now aged 90, imparted to his son a love of the land. In the mid-60s, at a time when many remaining pockets of native bush were being cleared on farms, he covenanted 160 hectares of bush under the protection of the QE2 Trust.
Mr Howden%26#39;s mother, Sylvia, was an Otago University-graduated %26quot;home scientist%26quot; - a combination of today%26#39;s dietitian and nutritionist - and he was brought up with a sound understanding of food nutrition and quality.
She converted the family to organics when her home garden was accidentally destroyed by a neighbour%26#39;s herbicide spray.
%26quot;It made her realise how powerful modern chemicals had become, how they were now part of our diet,%26quot; Mr Howden recalls. %26quot;She knew this could not be good for people%26#39;s health.%26quot;
Conservation and healthy food were essential elements of his life growing up. %26quot;I%26#39;m the product of my upbringing,%26quot; he says. %26quot;I don%26#39;t see myself as a greenie as such. I%26#39;m a green farmer. It%26#39;s part of my life, more than just a tag.%26quot;
In the 80s, he spent three and a half years travelling in Europe, North America, India, the Middle East and Africa. The memory of the foods he tasted then stayed with him when he returned to New Zealand.
After a disastrous brush with the Angora goat boom he turned to selling advertising. One of his clients was a Chinese market gardener who wanted to sell his greengrocer%26#39;s shop. Mr Howden turned down the offer but later had %26quot;the proverbial bright idea%26quot;. %26quot;I asked to buy the sprouting business, which came with a network of Chinese restaurant customers. I thought there was scope to grow the business.%26quot;
It was also a return to a form of farming that would allow him to use the marketing and business skills he had picked up.
He began by sprouting mung beans and alfalfa in a shed on his father%26#39;s farm.
It was 1990 and a rejuvenated restaurant and cafe culture was reaching out into the countryside. He quickly went from working two days a week to fulltime and then to employing two other workers. His business doubled every year for the next seven years. Sprouts also became an essential ingredient in home salads and he began supplying them to supermarkets.
HE expanded to sprouting snow peas, lentils and chick peas. At its peak the business was selling 5000 of 100-gram and 300-gram packets of sprouts a week before sales plateaued in the late 90s.
By then he had made an important discovery. %26quot;I realised I was in a good position to offer my customers add-ons. Chefs were becoming more adventurous as diners%26#39; tastes changed and they were looking for different, more interesting ingredients.%26quot;
So he began growing such vegetables as the first coloured lettuces, fennel bulbs, celeriac, and radicchio, an Italian chicory.
Now a certified organic farmer on a 20ha block closer to Masterton with a purpose-built sprout house, he says he has deliberately kept the business a small regional producer to the lower North Island. He says the concept of food miles should apply even within New Zealand and he has passed up opportunities to sell elsewhere.
He also runs a few steers with the intention of developing an organic beef business. His latest move has been into brassicas and he has discovered his stony, well-drained soil is suitable for growing a winter cauliflower. He is trialling varieties and growing techniques.
The stones keep the soil warm and frosts enhance the caulis%26#39; flavour. It%26#39;s an example of the %26quot;terroir%26quot; winegrowers talk about, he says.
%26quot;It also applies to vegetables. The flavour of the vegetables grown in the conditions they perform best in can be as specific to a region as are varieties of grapes.
%26quot;It%26#39;s something New Zealanders don%26#39;t appreciate, but each region has its special strengths in climate and soil type.%26quot;
The chemical-free organic farming methods bring out even more flavour. %26quot;Without exception, organic vegetables are much more tasty than conventionally grown vegetables,%26quot; he says. %26quot;They are not forced to grow too quickly and their cell structures haven%26#39;t been expanded by too much nitrogen.%26quot;
He says his farming methods are an example of biodiversity. %26quot;The waste from the sprout house is fed to the cattle and the manure from the cattle adds to the biological activity in the soil.%26quot;
Paddocks are put in crops for two years before spending three years in a pasture ley - his own mix of lucerne, chicory, plantain, prairie grass and ryegrasses.
Chemicals and other inputs are not the answer to promoting soil fertility, he says. %26quot;Too much acidulated fertilisers are making our soils sick. Fertility doesn%26#39;t come in a 50kg sack, it comes from a natural exchange of biological activity.
%26quot;Once we get that right, animal and plant health problems disappear, and a healthy crop means healthy people.%26quot;
He is pleased that some conventional farmers are waking up to this and using more organic practices. But they have to fully comprehend what they are doing.
%26quot;You can%26#39;t be green unless you are totally aware. You have to question what you are doing and why you are doing it.
%26quot;You have to live it, feel it, believe it.%26quot;

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GERALDINE JOHNS: Shore conversion

Wednesday, April 16th, 2008

AJS Food Design tiptoed into Huron St late last year. The person who answers the telephone there describes it as an %26quot;upmarket food bar%26quot;. Only an on-site inspection will offer a true interpretation of what this means.
Let us end the suspense here and now. AJS is a very fine find on Huron. The Takapuna doubting Thomas that has penned this column before has had, if not an epiphany, then an experience close to Shore conversion. AJS stands for Andrew Joseph Sherry, who owns the place with wife Vanessa.
It is smart and fresh and tidy. It has fresh eggs by the dozens and fresh bread and garlic bulbs in the window. There is food to feed a cast of 100 in the cabinet and it%26#39;s food that would make even the non-hungry decide they had an appetite. Much of this is ready-to-go material which suits the site because there is limited seating but there%26#39;s an all-day breakfast too.
I don%26#39;t know what it is about these regions but once more the spelling leaves a lot to be desired. In this case we shall decide they have put all their energies into what they are creating instead.
You could design your own sandwich but a woman wants the grilled fish on ciabatta already on offer (it is, after all, Friday). Her companion will get the sirloin steak version. It was a choice between that or a buxom bunch of pies (scallop, beef, that sort of thing) or maybe a good-looking salad. The coffee (Toasted) is enough to straighten the most curved of spine. It makes a woman sit up straight and take in her surrounds: the faux-pressed ceiling, the lovely open street view and the soon-to-be-opened skyscraper across the street. That has got to be good for business.
The sandwiches deserve something of a drum roll. Artfully plated, substantial in size and flavour and no overburdening of dressing or any other ghastly surprises.
The abstemious would quit at this point. We remain seated and explore Vanessa%26#39;s sweet options: an airy carrot cake and a slice as sweet as its maker.
The companion says it%26#39;s the best lunch bar he%26#39;s been to in an age and, lord knows, he%26#39;s of an age to have encountered more than a few.
Me? I went back once more just to ensure it wasn%26#39;t a one-off. It is not. If a woman%26#39;s relationship with the Shore was poor before, then this is a lesson in building a bridge and getting over it.
WHERE: 5 Huron St, Takapuna, ph 489-3512. WHEN: 6am-4pm weekdays; 8am-2pm Saturday. HOW MUCH: 45 well-spent dollars. WHAT%26#39;S TO EAT: Lovely breakfast and lunch stuff, to have or to hold. WHAT DO WE THINK: Do AdJust your Site.

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Opportunity outside the square

Monday, April 7th, 2008

Hugh Taylor is not afraid of farming outside of conventional wisdom.
Who else would grow feedlot-fed Japanese beef for Europe, have automatic gate openers and sell all his wool to Nepal? Or divine his own irrigation water and volunteer his romneys to be part of one of the largest meat-yield trials?
The Oxford farmer is not into fads %26ndash; a 50-year-old family romney stud can vouch for that. But he and wife Jan have been prepared to move in new directions when opportunities arise or times get tough.
Taylor admits that he has never been one for standing still.
%26quot;We have gone outside the square a bit and looked for alternatives. The way the farming economy for sheep and beef is the last 20 years, we have had to take this direction.%26quot;
At about 300m above sea level, the couple%26#39;s 350ha Gleneyre farm is on billiard- table-flat property west of Oxford and receives more than 1000mm of rainfall a year. Half the farm is irrigated by a centre pivot and two guns.
For the first of seven wells drilled, they brought in commercial diviners, who were found wanting after 180m of digging. With metal rods in hand, Hugh Taylor took over, eventually honing in on four successful well sites.
As there was not enough water on the farm for dairying, the Taylors had a feedlot built in 1995 for finishing beef cattle.
At the time, Nippon Meatpackers, a Japanese company with a turnover three times New Zealand%26#39;s GDP, was looking for Kiwi farmers with experience in running up to 1000 cattle on flat land for a trial to see if feedlot farming was viable in New Zealand.
Cattle operations of that size were hard to come by at the time and Taylor fitted the specifications for running wagyu cattle. The breed is genetically inclined to intense marbling in its meat %26ndash; also known as Kobe- style beef %26ndash; which is favoured by fine diners for its flavour, tenderness and juiciness.
The feedlot was designed by the Taylors in partnership with their neighbours, Glen and Sharon Morris. The electronic fencing they introduced was an eye-opener for the Japanese, and a fall for the pad was added to allow for the high rainfall.
Nippon Meatpackers put up the full $1.6 million cost for the feedlot, and when they departed New Zealand shores 18 months later, it changed hands for $1, minus the plant.
A later trial with another operator of 40 lines of cattle has proved invaluable after a 0.8kg a head difference was found in daily weight gain between breeds, with angus and angus cross doing the best.
Today the feedlot operation continues to be run by the Taylor and Morris team. The wagyu beef they produce is no longer bound for Japan but rather processed in Wellington and despatched to European diners by Kiwi company Firstlight Foods.
The Taylors%26#39; consent allows the 8ha feedlot to carry 2000 cattle, with more than 1500 currently being finished. Cattle with wagyu bloodlines come from North Island operations and are contract fed, with only a few cattle owned and raised by the partnership%26#39;s trading company, Southernprime.
Taylor says wagyu cattle have provided a premium above returns for conventional breeds.
%26quot;With wagyu, the higher the marbling, the better you get paid, and there is big bucks involved. A Japanese A5 wagyu got $26,000. That is the elite of the breed. The best we can get in New Zealand is to B3, with a marbling score of nine.
%26quot;We bought a high-marbling angus bull, which is in the top per cent (of angus bulls) in New Zealand. We will put him over our angus cows and then put high-marbling wagyu semen over the heifers.%26quot;
The meat is sought after by top chefs in Europe and is so tender a butter-knife will cut through it, Taylor says.
%26quot;It makes farming more viable when people get paid for quality and marbling. At the moment we are fighting feed costs and the United States dollar, but we can bypass the US dollar because our meat is going into Europe.
%26quot;The wagyu are a Japanese- type cattle. They are like a dairy animal, but once you put them onto hard feed they turn into a good beef animal. They are very intelligent with a gentle temperament.%26quot;
Incoming wagyu cattle are about 350kg liveweight and are fed on the feedlot for just over a year to reach a weight of up to 750kg. Once up to the desirable weight, the cattle are trucked off the property.
Feedlots are a costly exercise %26ndash; in Japan, daily feed costs are more than $US10 a head %26ndash; and cattle feeding rates are precisely analysed. The Taylors and Morrises know to the nearest kilogram how much each mob eats. The cattle are weighed two months after arrival and when they leave the farm.
Fed twice a day in the morning and after lunch, each cattle eats between 10kg and 12kg of dry matter depending on their weight. Young cattle are first schooled on eating silage. They go on an initial diet of silage with some straw and within four or five days most take to it easily.
%26quot;We train them up on silage so they learn how to eat,%26quot; says Taylor. %26quot;It%26#39;s a bit like a yacht race. In a feedlot, they have to be up to speed when they come in and up to speed when they come out.%26quot;
Prime cuts from feedlot beef are mainly sent to Europe, and Firstlight has lately tested the South American market. Forever looking for the next opportunity, Taylor hopes, possibly in the next three years, to have romney lamb combined with the shipments of wagyu beef to European restaurants.
A great mound of barley silage is based next to the feedlot, where it is fed with other ingredients into a kilometre of feed troughs. The feedlot recipe includes minerals and supplements, and about 2500 tonnes of barley silage dry matter is made for the wagyu operation.
The two-man operation is fully mechanised, with a barley- crushing machine on site to make the grain palatable. About 150ha of dryland and irrigated barley is grown by the Taylors and Morrises to keep the feedlot stocked. This grain and silage is mixed with brewers%26#39; leftover, the residue after brewers make beer from barley.
The feedlot is on a clay and shingle-based pad topped with sawdust and with fabric underneath diverting cattle waste to an effluent pond.
A mountain-load of sawdust is used to keep the feedlot within consented parameters for odour, and to keep the pad clean and dry underfoot.
The sawdust and manure mixture is collected by a home- designed machine and deposited on pasture to raise Gleneyre%26#39;s soil fertility. This blend is kept for six to eight months to settle and then spread in spring.
Taylor says the soil additive sends wormlife %26quot;through the roof%26quot; and improves paddock performance during a drought.
Gleneyre%26#39;s heavy and light soils are a combination of wakanui silt loams and ruapuna silt loams. To further improve pastures, Taylor is working with a dairy farmer to fine-tune planting rates and grazing of new pastures.
A mixed-beef cattle herd of 70 head are grazed on the farm. Another 2000 dairy cows are contract grazed between May and July.
Gleneyre was bought in 1947 by Hugh Taylor%26#39;s ex-serviceman father, who opted out of becoming a doctor for a farming career.
Rocks, gorse and rabbits had to be removed, fences built and shelter introduced. Taylor took over the farm when his father died in 1978.
With it came a romney stud, now 150 ewes, that has been in the family for half a century. Alongside this flock are 1000 commercial ewes and 500 ewe lambs of the same breed.
On the property, 638 ewes were involved in a saleable meat-yield trial during last year%26#39;s lambing, aimed at getting the most out of the romney by measuring traits that will raise the profits of commercial farmers.
During the romney trial, rams were identified that produced not only the highest meat yield, but carried tenderness and quality traits. The three-year trial is now in its final year.
Last year, half of Hugh Taylor%26#39;s trial flock of ewes were two tooths and the rest older ewes. They were single-sire mated, and lambed at Gleneyre between August 23 and September 20.
Every lamb was weighed at birth and tagged according to its sire, while the ewes were scored on their mothering ability, from one for a ewe that stood by its lamb when approached, to three for a scatter-brained %26quot;nutter%26quot; of which there were few.
Of the 1149 lambs that dropped for a lambing percentage of 180%, about 121 lambs died at or around birth. The eventual tally of 156% for lambs finished during a stop- start season with cool soils was considered a success.
The lambs were sent to the freezing works in three drafts over five weeks ending February 15, and averaged 17.2kg. The ewes produced more twins and few triplets, which reduces the risk of lamb deaths and slow lambs unable to gain weight quickly.
As chairman of Romney New Zealand, the marketing arm of the New Zealand Romney Sheep Breeders Association, Taylor is proud that romney farmers have driven the trial. The discovery of a double- muscling gene in the breed by scientists is a bonus, he says.
%26quot;That%26#39;s (meat yield) the way the market is heading. I can see down the track the benefits should be huge for the breed. The better the double muscling, the higher the yield we will get.%26quot;
At his own stud, ewes are culled exhaustively to raise their breeding performance. Each year between 25% and 30% of the ewe flock is replaced. With this tough approach, Taylor has pushed the lambing percentage at much the same rate as the trial flock, with all single-bearing ewes immediately culled.
Taylor is working on pulling back the size of his stud flock for a smaller and more compact animal with more meat on its frame.
The ewe wool produced is 37 microns, with each ewe averaging six kilograms a year. All the wool is bound for Nepal, where it is used by Tibetan artisans in handmade carpets, in an initiative driven out by Romney New Zealand.
Taylor says romney farmers have looked outside conventional farming markets for a destination for their wool.
%26quot;The reason we are getting stuck into the wool is because we see huge potential in it that hasn%26#39;t been realised. I cannot see why someone hasn%26#39;t been doing this before. We have been let down by people who have used our levies and we have virtually had to do it ourselves.%26quot;
Taylor has an easier time negotiating his way around his own farm.
Electric gates are spring loaded so farm vehicles don%26#39;t have to stop every time one is reached.
Taylor says the gates are worth their weight in gold, and he can motor around the entire farm in 15 minutes.
%26quot;I see opening gates as a sheer waste of time. We had some Lincoln University graduates a few years ago and they did a thesis which figured out that (by not stopping to open gates) they save 17 days a year.

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The bee’s knees of cheese

Saturday, March 29th, 2008

When Venetia Hill got the phone call from the organisers of the Cuisine New Zealand Champions of Cheese Awards, she immediately assumed the worst: maybe her entry in the hobbyist category had gone mouldy while being couriered to Auckland from her Motueka home, and wasn%26#39;t fit for judging.
But it was quite the opposite. The call was to ask if she would be able to fly up to Auckland for the awards dinner, to receive the two prizes for hobby cheese-making in the keenly contested competition: the Curds and Whey Champion Hobbyist Cheese title, and the Katherine Mowbray Champion Hobbyist Cheesemaker award.
As it was, the notice was too late for Hill to manage a trip, but her success is probably no surprise to those fortunate enough to have tasted her efforts with fresh goat cheese made in the coulommier style (similar to brie).
While Hill is self-taught, she has been making her own cheese since the 1980s and has more than once been urged to go into commercial production.
She is a firm advocate of goat milk. She originally introduced it to her family%26#39;s diet in an attempt to find something to cure her oldest son%26#39;s eczema.
It worked, and she went on to discover its many other qualities, particularly for cheese-making.
At the time, in the 1980s, she was running a herd of 80 goats on a Dovedale property and while most of their milk went for calf food, she kept a little aside to dabble in cheese-making as part of her enthusiasm for self-sufficiency.
Among various cheese-making mentors she has had over the years, one of the first was an English woman who provided her with %26quot;bit and pieces%26quot;, including, early on, a pamphlet containing recipes and including one for a coulommier-style cheese.
Hill tried it, successfully, and has continued to build on that success, sharing it with friends and family, often to acclaim.
Judy Finn of Neudorf Wines, for example, had long told her she should go into commercial production, Hill says. The real irony, though, is that from the beginning, Hill didn%26#39;t know if her interpretation tasted as a coulommier cheese is supposed to, and she still doesn%26#39;t. Not that it matters, obviously.
The key to it, she says, is a delicate touch. The delicacy is rewarded and repeated in terms of the texture and flavour; it is not at all %26quot;goaty%26quot;.
While the coulommier has been her mainstay, she has branched out and one of her current projects is to produce a feta-style cheese marinated in a local olive oil.
She is also planning a camembert-style goat cheese, and will start hard-cheese production when the days are cooler and conditions are better for storing the hard styles without a specialist cellar.
Hill works occasionally at Neudorf Dairy and it was her sometimes-boss there, Brian Beuke, who encouraged her to enter the awards (Neudorf was also a winner, receiving the Massey University Champion Sheep Cheese Award for its Neudorf Ewes Milk Cheese).
Hill%26#39;s dream is to launch into commercial production of her own. But the hurdles set by regulation are high, not least the pasteurisation rules which have frustrated many a purist%26#39;s enthusiasm for classic, unpasteurised cheese.
While Hill says unpasteurised milk makes a superior cheese and thinks the treatment is pointless anyway for goat milk, since goats don%26#39;t suffer the diseases pasteurising is intended to counter her main problem with pasteurisation is pragmatic rather than principled.
The cost of a pasteuriser would be prohibitive at the scale she would like to work at.
While she hopes that the authorities might relax the rules and allow the commercial production of unpasteurised cheese, she is continuing to investigate options to get into business.
Her current milk source is one of her two pedigree toggenburg goats (although the prize-winning cheese was supplemented with some milk from an anglo-nubian goat owned by Julie Nicol of Kina, who shares a block of land with Hill for the goats%26#39; grazing).
She would like to increase her flock to six goats, which would give her up to 30 litres of milk a day still a minuscule production, but enough to mean that her prize-winning cheeses are not confined to those lucky enough to be in the know.

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Champagne of Belgian beer

Saturday, March 29th, 2008

In Belgium a handful of artisan farmhouse brewers and blenders in and around Brussels make the beer world%26#39;s most unique and ancient style of beer.
Although the recipe is similar to a standard wheat beer, roughly 30 percent wheat to 70 percent barley, lambic is the only modern-day brewing style where brewers don%26#39;t inoculate the wort (boiled malt extract) with cultured yeast strains.
Brewers in the sixteenth century knew only that if they left the hopped wort overnight in open-topped vessels and with the brewery windows wide open, by the morning the %26quot;miracle%26quot; of fermentation had begun.
We now know exactly what happens: Wild fruit yeasts from local apple and pear orchards float in on the breeze, land in shallow open vessels full of sweet malty wort and begin a spontaneous fermentation. A day later the brew is pumped into unlined oak casks where it will continue a sequence of fermentations for up to three years.
There are several sub-styles of lambic beer. In each case the traditional unsweetened variants are usually labelled %26quot;oude%26quot; (old), while modern, sweetened, versions are identified with the term %26quot;nouveau%26quot; (new).
In New Zealand sweetened beers from Belle Vue, Mort Subite and Timmerman%26#39;s are the most popular (and least costly), but traditional examples from Boon, and occasionally Cantillon, can also be found in Belgian beer cafes and the most beer-savvy shops.
Authentic gueuze is made by blending old and young lambics. As a rough rule the best results come from blending three-year-old lambic with some one-year-old.
Pouring the colour of onion skins, with no head, it smells and tastes earthy and slightly savoury, something like a cross between a toasty, nutty chardonnay and a bone-dry cider!
The tradition of adding locally grown soft fruit to casks of lambic goes back centuries. Raspberry (framboise) or cherry (kriek) lambics are the most traditional, cherry stones can impart delicious almondy/marzipan notes, but peach, blackcurrant, banana and even tea-flavoured variants can also be found.
An old fashioned style that%26#39;s enjoying something of a comeback, Faro is a young lambic that has been sweetened with brown crystallised cane sugar, caramel or molasses.
Pouring a couple of shades darker than a straight lambic or gueuze, this sweet and sour style sometimes offers suggestions of apricot.
Lambic wit beers spiced with coriander seed and Curacao orange peel (in the manner of Hoegaarden and other Belgian witbiers), tend to have a silky, lactic creaminess. The first hybrid lambic-based wheat beer, Timmerman%26#39;s Lambicus Wit, offers suggestions of toast and ginger along with a hint of the lambic%26#39;s wine-like acidity.
Despite their complexity, lambics particularly the oude versions are wonderfully refreshing and, when served chilled in a flute glass, make an excellent alternative to champagne as a welcoming drink at a barbecue or party.
Wonderfully food-friendly, they are, however, probably the ultimate challenge to those whose appreciation of beer is based exclusively on modern lagers.
You have been warned!
Cheers!

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Come together for Easter

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

And although Easter Sunday%26#39;s feast has taken on new interpretations in these secular times, it is still an occasion to get together with family and friends and share good food and drink.
As a feast day it is not yet as commercial %26ndash; or expensive %26ndash; as Christmas dinner, and for that let us all be truly thankful.
Lamb or pork are picked by those in the trade as the favourite roast this weekend. Both good choices; autumn lamb has richer flavours than spring lamb. Pork has a generous layer of fat and the meat will be sweet, the crackling crisp.
Sometimes, though, a large piece of meat is too much. Excuse me for bringing the subject of cost up. Yes, I know a feast is not about saving money, but why eat lavishly today and on scraps tomorrow? Then there is the fiddle of getting the timing right if the accompaniments are to be the traditional roast vegetables and gravy; more hassle when it comes to carving and serving.
So, I am thinking chicken pieces. Not your everyday bland and boring breasts and thighs, but big juicy breast on the bone cuts. They are the bargain of the chicken section, they roast quietly without fuss or attention, and always deliver on taste.
I have unleashed my vegetable obsession in this late summer-early autumn time and have been mixing baked beetroots with roast kumara, caramelising chunks of early squash alongside roasted red peppers,and baking pears and apples to the point of charring and almost exploding with juice. I fancy a platterful with my chicken.
There are still salad days on the calendar, and slices of fennel %26ndash; sometimes tossed with chopped shallots, sometimes with slices of tart braeburn apples, but often solo %26ndash; might not be a true salad but the crisp freshness is grand with a roast.
Festive desserts often feature chocolate but this week that seems a richness too far. Instead, I%26#39;ll tweak an old-fashioned custard meringue pie into little tarts, adding a few late-season mellowed blueberries.
Roast vegetable %26amp; orange salad with orange-chive dressing
The tart juice and flesh of blood orange is great with the sweet vegetables, but any variety of orange can be substituted . The beetroot can be baked 1-2 days in advance but assemble the salad just before serving. Serves 4-6.
Adapted from a a recipe by Stephanie Witt Sedgwick in the LA Times.
Vegetables:
1 bunch of young spinach4 medium beetroot3-4 medium kumara, peeled and chunked12 acorn squash, peeled and chunkedOlive oilSalt %26amp; pepper
Wash and dry spinach leaves. Bake beetroot as directed on page D5. Preheat oven to 200deg. Steam, microwave or boil kumara and squash pieces until barely cooked, then place in a shallow baking tin, sprinkle with a little olive oil, salt and pepper, and roast for 15 minutes. Cut beetroot into same-size chunks, add to roasting pan and continue to bake vegetables until the squash begins to caramelise. Remove from oven and keep warm.
Dressing:
2 blood oranges1 Tbsp white-wine vinegar1 Tbsp fresh chives, finely chopped12 tsp castor sugarSalt %26amp; pepper to taste14 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Segment the oranges by trimming off the tops and bottoms. Stand fruit on cutting board and, using a sharp knife, cut the peel and pith away from top to bottom. Hold the fruit in your hand over a bowl and cut the orange segments out of their membranes. Set the segments aside and squeeze what remains to extract every drop of juice. Combine orange juice, vinegar, sugar, chives, salt and pepper. Whisk well, then slowly add olive oil still whisking.
To assemble, put spinach, orange segments and roasted vegetables in a bowl. Pour the dressing carefully over, then use your hands to toss gently, distributing the orange segments and chives evenly. Serve immediately or refrigerate: if the salad is refrigerated, bring to room temperature before serving.
Chicken on fennel with roasted pear %26amp; mustard sauce
The flavours of roast chicken with none of the waste. The fennel salad and mustard sauce add a special occasion touch to the dish. Adapted from a meal enjoyed in the Sierra Mar restaurant in Big Sur, California.
4-6 breast on bone chicken pieces, trimmed but skin-on3 Tbsp avocado oil (divided measure)Salt and freshly ground pepper (to taste)4-6 tsp fresh breadcrumbs1 pear half per person
Sauce:
250g button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced125ml chardonnay125g whole grain mustard250ml chicken stock
Fennel salad:
2 bulbs fennel, trimmed, halved and sliced crosswise2 Tbsp lemon juice1 Tbsp olive oil
Heat oven to 180deg. Brush the chicken pieces with 1 Tbsp avocado oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Scoop out the seeds and membrane of pear halves and fill the hollow with a little avocado oil. Put chicken and pears into roasting dish and cook for 20 minutes then sprinkle each breast with 1 tsp bread crumbs and continue to roast until meat is cooked to the bone (about 35 minutes in total).
Test how cooked it is by piercing near the bone with a skewer. If juices run pink continue to cook. Let stand for 2-3 minutes before serving. Remove the pears when the skins begin to char and the fruit collapses. Keep warm.
Meanwhile, make the sauce, by heating 1 Tbsp of avocado oil in a saucepan and sauteeing mushrooms for 4-5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, and wine. Simmer until wine has cooked away, then add mustard and chicken stock. Reduce until the sauce is thick. Taste and adjust seasoning. Keep warm.
To prepare salad: Toss fennel slices with lemon juice and olive oil and add ground pepper to taste.
To serve, place equal amounts of sliced fennel on separate plates, top with a chicken breast, and a little sauce, and serve with the roasted pear halves.
Custard, blueberry %26amp; meringue tarts
Adapted from a recipe of Miss Peat, Kurow%26#39;s famous cooking teacher.2 sheets of frozen sweet short-crust pastry, thawed1 egg white, lightly whisked until beginning to fluff100g blueberries1 Tbsp sugar1 Tbsp cornflour12 tsp ground nutmegPinch of salt350ml cream4 egg yolks3 egg whites170g white sugar, preferably castor sugar
Preheat oven to 180deg. Lightly grease eight 9cm tart tins and, using a large cookie cutter, press out circles and line the tart tins. Put in refrigerator for 20 minutes, then prick the bases with a fork and brush with first egg white. Put the tart tins on a baking sheet in the oven. Bake for about 20-25 minutes but don%26#39;t let it over-brown. Remove and cool.
Meanwhile, put the blueberries in a small pan over low heat and cook gently until the juices begin to run. Remove immediately and set aside. Put sugar, cornflour, nutmeg and salt in a double boiler or a bowl poised over simmering water, add 2 Tbsp of the cream and stir to a paste, then add the rest of the cream.
Stir over the simmering water until the cream is quite thick. Remove from heat. Lightly beat the egg yolks and add to the warm cream. Beat vigorously to ensure a thick smooth custard, then add the blueberries and juices. Put aside until cold.
Whip the egg whites to soft peaks, add 13 of the sugar and continue to beat, adding the sugar in two more stages until the mixture is stiff and shiny. Divide the blueberry custard between the baked tart cases. Cover completely with meringue, piling it high. Bake for 15 minutes or until firm to the touch and golden brown.

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The bee’s knees of cheese

Tuesday, March 18th, 2008

When Venetia Hill got the phone call from the organisers of the Cuisine New Zealand Champions of Cheese Awards, she immediately assumed the worst: maybe her entry in the hobbyist category had gone mouldy while being couriered to Auckland from her Motueka home, and wasn%26#39;t fit for judging.
But it was quite the opposite. The call was to ask if she would be able to fly up to Auckland for the awards dinner, to receive the two prizes for hobby cheese-making in the keenly contested competition: the Curds and Whey Champion Hobbyist Cheese title, and the Katherine Mowbray Champion Hobbyist Cheesemaker award.
As it was, the notice was too late for Hill to manage a trip, but her success is probably no surprise to those fortunate enough to have tasted her efforts with fresh goat cheese made in the coulommier style (similar to brie).
While Hill is self-taught, she has been making her own cheese since the 1980s and has more than once been urged to go into commercial production.
She is a firm advocate of goat milk. She originally introduced it to her family%26#39;s diet in an attempt to find something to cure her oldest son%26#39;s eczema.
It worked, and she went on to discover its many other qualities, particularly for cheese-making.
At the time, in the 1980s, she was running a herd of 80 goats on a Dovedale property and while most of their milk went for calf food, she kept a little aside to dabble in cheese-making as part of her enthusiasm for self-sufficiency.
Among various cheese-making mentors she has had over the years, one of the first was an English woman who provided her with %26quot;bit and pieces%26quot;, including, early on, a pamphlet containing recipes and including one for a coulommier-style cheese.
Hill tried it, successfully, and has continued to build on that success, sharing it with friends and family, often to acclaim. Judy Finn of Neudorf Wines, for example, had long told her she should go into commercial production, Hill says. The real irony, though, is that from the beginning, Hill didn%26#39;t know if her interpretation tasted as a coulommier cheese is supposed to, and she still doesn%26#39;t. Not that it matters, obviously.
The key to it, she says, is a delicate touch. The delicacy is rewarded and repeated in terms of the texture and flavour; it is not at all %26quot;goaty%26quot;.
While the coulommier has been her mainstay, she has branched out and one of her current projects is to produce a feta-style cheese marinated in a local olive oil. She is also planning a camembert-style goat cheese, and will start hard-cheese production when the days are cooler and conditions are better for storing the hard styles without a specialist cellar.
Hill works occasionally at Neudorf Dairy and it was her sometimes-boss there, Brian Beuke, who encouraged her to enter the awards (Neudorf was also a winner, receiving the Massey University Champion Sheep Cheese Award for its Neudorf Ewes Milk Cheese).
Hill%26#39;s dream is to launch into commercial production of her own. But the hurdles set by regulation are high, not least the pasteurisation rules which have frustrated many a purist%26#39;s enthusiasm for classic, unpasteurised cheese.
While Hill says unpasteurised milk makes a superior cheese and thinks the treatment is pointless anyway for goat milk, since goats don%26#39;t suffer the diseases pasteurising is intended to counter her main problem with pasteurisation is pragmatic rather than principled. The cost of a pasteuriser would be prohibitive at the scale she would like to work at.
While she hopes that the authorities might relax the rules and allow the commercial production of unpasteurised cheese, she is continuing to investigate options to get into business.
Her current milk source is one of her two pedigree toggenburg goats (although the prize-winning cheese was supplemented with some milk from an anglo-nubian goat owned by Julie Nicol of Kina, who shares a block of land with Hill for the goats%26#39; grazing). She would like to increase her flock to six goats, which would give her up to 30 litres of milk a day still a minuscule production, but enough to mean that her prize-winning cheeses are not confined to those lucky enough to be in the know.

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